Future Utility AW 16/17

FUTURE UTILITY -

Linking my previous blogposts together, this trend associates "the fashion capitals this season, with military and utility themes at the forefront in Paris and New York, and a gently retro mood from London and Milan. Fictonial uniforms of the future inspire outfits with practical intent, casually strapped and velcroed to the wearer to create a survivalist, dystopian mood. Desifners mix subtle references to create a look that feels retro yet untied to any one decade. A lo-tech sportswear vibe and geo patterning pull the look together. A North American take on the 1990s emerges, taking in hip-hop, skate and mall-rat culture for an oversized casual streetwear look. The European settlers of North America inspire a story of hardworking clothes which take in traditional Navajo-influenced patterns and rich vegetable dyes.

COLOURS -

While the colour range of this trend stays true to its military roots and signals a ready-for-action functionality, there is a sense of sophistication in the shading of each hue. Khaki, olive and grey blend in subtle tonal combinations and are accompanied by a softer Air Force blue. Black, white and cobalt provide crisp contrast.

KEY LOOKS -

 A more relaxed take on military uniform styling retains its functional aspects with a modern minimalism. While design details are pared back and integrated into the silhouette, subtle tonal contrasts of colour and texture in garment design or styling evoke a sci-fi utility feel. 

PRINT & PATTERN -

Pattern is all about camouflage in this trend, whether soft and textural or high-contrast dazzle. New designs at Nautica and adidas Originals x White Mountaineering are based on dissolving grid pattern, perfect for disappearing into the winter metropolis.

MATERIALS -

 Inside-out pieces appear in conjunction with utility looks, bringing sheen lining fabrics and quilted looks to the outside of garments. Borg and dense wool fabrics provide texture while closures such as button tabs and laid-on zips become key features.

ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR -

Pieces that attach to the body are key in all cities. Neat, smaller bag shapes echo the belted coat trend, slung across the chest. Larger shapes are inspired by military standard-issue, while eyewear design takes a modernist approach to the aviator shape. Camouflage appears on accessories as an accent, or as part of a total look at Moncler.