Friday, 23 December 2016

Summative Brief - Future Utility (CONTEXT)

For our last brief of the year we were allocated a trend from the WGSN to explore. The trend I was given was "Future Utility". For this trend I wanted to analyse "future" and "utility" seperate so I could eventually combine them together and gain an understanding of the two parts of the trend. Firstly I looked on "Who What Wear" which portrayed the futuristic trend as this: "It was inevitable that designers were thinking about the future, and for many, this came out in edgy metallic swaths and space-like silhouettes. It's always an insightful experience to see different interpretations of what the future looks like, and it seems that for spring we have plenty of iretations to choose from" - Spring 2016.

I then researched the timeline of Futurism. Futurism began in Italy as a cutting-edge theory among early 20th century painters and sculptors, and evolved into a cultural movement that swept through other art forms, including fashion and design. The futuristics called for a break with the past, and a celebration of everything new, urban and industrial. For fashion, Futurism meant fabrics, designers, colours and cuts that reflected audacity, movement and speed. Futurism faded with the onset of World War II, but the movement's emphasis on revolt, risk and modernity continues to inspire fashion theory.

Futurism challenged artists to develop new styles that expressed the ideas and sensations of the modern world. In 1914, painter Giacomo Balla, one of the movement's founders, developed guidelines for fashion. Balla mocked the neutral colours, symmetrical designs and infirmity that dominated the styles of the day. He insisted that clothing should be aggressive, with "musuclar" or deep shades of colour and bold geometrical patterns. Rather than balance, Balla favoured asymmetry, such as jacket sleeves cut in different lengths and shapes. He empasised designs with layers that could be added or stripped away to spontaneously create a new look.

Futurism redefined the purpose of fashion. The movement gained action and aggression, and Balla called for a simple and comfortable clothing designed to allow the skin to breathe, and the body to move with ease. In 1920, Futurist designer Ernesto Michahelles, known as Thayaht, introduced a roomy, utilitarian, unisex jumpsuit called the tuna, short for the Italian word tutta, which means all. The tuta caught the attention of the public, and was the one Futurist design to achieve commerical success. Still, Futurism's new empasis on clothing designed to accomodate on active lifestyle was a genuine innovation and the start of what would eventually become modern sportswear. 

As the idea of the future evolved, so did Futurism's role in fashion. In the early 1990's during a fashion era that Vogue editor Diane Vreeland defined as "Youthquake", miniskirts, vinyl dresses and neon colours signaled the same result aganist the past styles that stressed originality and equality. At the same time, Pierre Cardin and Andre Courteges introduced space-age collections that reflected the era's interest and enthuiasm for space exploration. The new look was built on sleek, minimalist clothing corrected with geometric shapes: Designers introduced synthetic fabrics, plastics and metals into clothing that relied on colours, such as metallics, day-glo and white for a futuristic effect.

Technology is shaping today's vision of the future, and the latest generation of futurist fashion designers has embraced engineering. Some designers are using high-tech and high-peformance fabric blends with new textures and metallic surfaces to construct more versatile shapes. Patterns that reflect machine components and circuitry have emerged as a trend. Other designers are incorporating machinery into designers that converse resources and energy are also a new focus of futurist fashion. Sustainable fashion uses fabrics and materials such as low-maintenance synthetics, recylced cottons and skins and furs from mangled populations of animals that are all produced through environmentally sound practices. 






Tuesday, 29 November 2016

Juergen Teller

"Juergen Teller (born January 28, 1964) is a German artist and fine-art and fashion photographer. Teller’s work, in books, magazines or exhibitions, is marked by his refusal to separate the commercial fashion pictures and his mostly autobiographical un-commissioned images. He employs a raw, overexposed style and he uses a Contax G2 camera with an onboard flash.[3] He prefers to work in color,[4] and regularly includes himself in his photographs. His fashion photographs have been featured in The Face, Vogue, W Magazine etc.." - Wikipedia




My seminar group got given Teller's editorial called "New Nomad" which captures the essence of the model Saskia De Braw exploring a wild landscape in bright printed pieces as she explores the Greek island of Hydra. 


Monday, 28 November 2016

Louis Vuitton Film

We watched "Spirit of Travel" a film made by Louis Vuitton in our seminar. It see's actresses Michelle Williams and Alicia Vikander travelling seperately and as a pair to a joint destination. The film incorporates it's herritage as a luggage maker to draw inspiration for its cruise collection communications. What is most prominent in this film is infact the consumer journey. The video conjures up idea's of this in a more real-world setting outside of shopping to demonstrate that there are smaller steps in between two destination points. 

Patrick Demarchilier who filmed the "Spirit of Travel" manages to seduce the audience by empasising the luxuruous life of these women who travel with the affluential Louis Vuitton bag.






Friday, 4 November 2016

The True Cost

After doing research of 'The Big Idea', we watched the film 'The True Cost' in our seminar. This was massively influential as it hi lighted the severity of how unfairly people are treated in third world countries, e.g - Bangladesh who make clothes in large, over-populated factories. "This is a story about clothing. It’s about the clothes we wear, the people who make them, and the impact the industry is having on our world. The price of clothing has been decreasing for decades, while the human and environmental costs have grown dramatically. The True Cost is a groundbreaking documentary film that pulls back the curtain on the untold story and asks us to consider, who really pays the price for our clothing? Filmed in countries all over the world, from the brightest runways to the darkest slums, and featuring interviews with the world’s leading influencers including Stella McCartney, Livia Firth and Vandana Shiva, The True Cost is an unprecedented project that invites us on an eye opening journey around the world and into the lives of the many people and places behind our clothes".


"The True Cost, is a fashion documentary that goes there and then some – it unravels the grim, gritty, global supply chain of fast fashion: a system that has injected the type of speed, disposability and price deflation that has directly led to the worst casualties in the industrial age" - Lucy Siege.




The Big Idea

Moving from the trend brief, we've started a new brief called "The Big Idea" which is a timely idea that disrupts and creates impact to achieve the stated aim. In this case, I'm looking at raising awareness of the environmental and ethical problems caused by the global fashion industry targeting NTU students, in which I will be making a campaign. 

From this, I've done some research in which I've collected some intriguing data which I would not have known before this brief and went onto http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com. Ethical fashion represents an approach to the design, sourcing and manufacture of clothing which maximises benefits to people and communities while minimising impact on the environment. For the EFF, the meaning of ethical goes beyond doing no harm, representing an approach which strives to take an active role in poverty reduction, sustainable livelihood creation, minimising and counteracting environmental concerns.

The Ethical Fashion Forum has drawn up a set of 10 criteria for ethical fashion, to inform the fashion industry's official ethical fashion awards, the RE; Fashion awards:
1.) Countering fast, cheap fashion and damaging patterns of fashion consumption.
2.) Defending fair wages, working conditions and workers' rights.
3.) Supporting sustainable livelihoods.
4.) Addressing toxic pesticide and chemical use.
5.) Using and/or developing eco-friendly fabrics and components.
6.) Minimising water use.
7.) Recylcing and adressing energy efficiency and waste.
8.) Developing or promoting sustainability standards for fashion.
9.) Resources, training and / or awareness raising initiatives.
10.) Animal rights.



Sunday, 30 October 2016

Chokers

Chokers have been a bold fashion statement for a while now, since the likes of Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid made the trend prominent again. There is something alluring about the choker, not only does it enhance a standard outfit and give it a more subtle, seductive look but the choker manages to collaborate well with every outfit regardless. Starting from the thin, velvet choker, now on the market there are copious amounts of chokers ranging in styles, patterns, widths and colours. 

Here are some of my favourite chokers in the market right now.

A x








Consumer Segmentation

Consumer segmentation is the process of splitting customers, or potential customers, within a market into different groups or segments, within which customers have the same or similar requirements. The reason one segments is to recognise consumer's differences which is key to successful marketing. It can lead to niche marketing, which in turn can lead to segement dominance (something often not possible in the whole market). 

Researching and understanding the consumer is central to marketing and promotion.. recognizing the requirements of the customer is essential for those tasked with creating, selling and promoting fashion products.. The type of segmentation is based on three factors: Demographic, Behavioural and Attitudinal / Psychographic. Demographic = age, income, gender etc, Behavioural = usage, need and occasion and Attitudinal / Psychographic = value systems, beliefs and lifestyle.

Market research companies often create acronyms to describe segments, such as: DINKYs - Double Income No Kids Yet and NEETs - Not in Employment, Education or Training. By this, from recognising consumers' differences is the key to successful marketing. It can lead to niche marketing, which in turn can lead to segment dominance (something often not possible in the whole market).

A x

Sunday, 23 October 2016

Colourful Hoods

A recent trend that I've noticed for this winter AW16 is the colourful hood on a parka jacket. Whilst scrolling down my instagram feed, I saw the likes of famous fashion blogger and one of my biggest inspirations Chiara Ferragni opting a parka jacket with a colourful fur hood. At first I wasn't sure whether this type of garment would be popular due to it being slightly too eccentric for the cold, winter months, but clearly I was wrong. I went into Zara and Urban Outfitters, and after researching online, I came to the consensus that this infact is a popular trend for winter defining all stereotypes by wearing bright colours in the gloomy months of winter. Here are some key examples of what I've been talking about.

A x











Fashion & Music

Fashion and Music have always collaborated. From the days of David Bowie who heavily influenced gender stereotypes, kick started glam rock and managed to single handedly transform the fashion industry; this influenced the french fashion designer Jean Paul Gautier to pay tribute to Ziggy Stardust for his 2013 runway show; as models took to the catwalk in iconic Bowie inspired looks and even wore Ziggy Stardust wigs. 

In continuation, other designers have managed to collaborate with artists, from the likes of: Rihanna & Dior and Rita Ora & Superga, which manipulated an industry with a massive fan base to buy these particular garments as their in the name of these influential celebrities. I find that these particular collaborations are in the spotlight for a few weeks then eventually die down due to more wacky and eccentric trends coming into place; unless these items of clothing have a particular wow factor which they rarely do, due to making the clothes far too eccentric e.g (fur slippers - Rihanna & Puma). Some of my favourite pieces of a celebrity/music trend are from the Rita Ora X Adidas collection where she aims it at a younger demographic from people aged 16-21 with bold prints and intriguing patterns.

A x








Monday, 17 October 2016

Knotted Waist Trend

The trend I'm looking at with my seminar group at the moment is the "knotted waist trend". This trend has been prominent for years, since the act of tying a plaid shirt around one's waist came into existence from the likes of Jennifer Aniston. I did some research into this trend and found on the fashion website www.theukfashionspot.co.uk some more information: "The cool school-kid act of tying a jumper around your waist is currently being glamourised by designers and runways alike, who are slapping knot details on everything from skirts and pants to dresses and tops. The trend dominated the Spring 2014 runways for Maticevski, and, if Alex Perry, Ellery, Sportmax and TOME NYC’s Autumn 2015 collections are anything to go by, it looks like the front-knot is here for the long haul".

Fashion bloggers, such as: The Man Repeller also gave an insight into this trend, for example: (The Man Repeller 2014) - "The shape of a woman’s body is one of the most fundamental inspirations when it comes to garment design, her waist being the literal center. Traditionally, clothes that failed to highlight a woman’s curves were seen as “unflattering,” and thus undesirable. Yet as of late, clothes trending on both the runway and the street shroud the female figure under layers upon layers of fabric. We see billowing tunics, bulky jumpsuits, floor-length shawls, etc. This season, the American bathrobe meets Japanese kimonos — casual comfort combined with traditional refinement. The relationship between a woman’s form and how she chooses to adorn it may indeed be shifting, but are we really ready to ignore a woman’s waistline? The prevalence of the belt this season makes me think not".

Here are some images from this trend.

A x








Tuesday, 11 October 2016

High Street v Designer


I've always been a lover of both high street and designer wear; yet nowadays it's so easy to recreate a whole designer outfit without killing your bank account. After years of internet shopping, I discovered how high street shops such as Zara, Mango and H&M put their own twist on these eccentric designer garments. I've decided to put a few comparisons together to show how even on a budget you can still feel a million dollars.

A x

H&M - £14.99

MO&CO £105
Topshop Unique - £110

Balenciaga - £ unknown but around £2,000



Topshop - £42


Timberlands - £160

Gigi Hadid X Tommy Hilfiger

Living in a world infactuated by social media, it comes to no suprise that iconic collaborations such as: Gigi Hadid x Tommy Hilfiger, caught my attention on instagram. In my seminar yesterday, we discussed the power and influence that celebrities have on revamping brands, in this case the collaboration of Gigi Hadid, one of the world's biggest supermodels with a huge cult of instragram followers (23.9 million) followers and Tommy Hilfiger, an iconic fashion designer with (2.9 million) followers. Hilfiger made sure that the world knew how prominent and eye-catching this collection would be, by showcasing it at a funfair on a pier with rides, burgers and even a tattoo parlour. The nautical theme reflected Gigi's relaxed yet put-together style. Here are two of my favourite looks from Gigi x Tommy collection.

A x

I love the tailored jacket and nautical theme.



I like the prominent use of logo combined with a slouchy jumper.